Where to source parts

[Kep]

Been waiting on parts from Folger for over 6 months now, made me think, are there other places to order frame and hardware parts? I realize fans and wire and other stuff is pretty generic, but is there anything that has to be ordered through folger?

[csorrows]

Any of the customized parts. These include the CNC cut ACM parts on all kits, the bed for the FT-6, and the circuit boards for the FT-6. Most everything else is generic off the shelf parts.

If you tell me what you need, I can be more clear on a correct replacement.

[Kep]

I was afraid of that lol. So I was trying to get the screws because some have been stripped by me, and without way to measure the screw or go to a store that carries small screws locally I was at an impasse. I really only need the longer ones that attach the fan to the extruded motor. I also was trying to get the stuff extruded metal frame pieces to start building another printer but without buying the complete kit just yet. But that does seem like clearly more of a challenge. Does anyone sell custom sized extruded metal frames? Could just design and build it from the ground up....

[csorrows]

I'm not sure where you are located. I am in the US and buy my precut extrusions from MISUMI. Cheap, quick, exact and clean.

The hardware lengths are listed in the steps of the manual. Typically if you are having issues with stripped fastener heads, you need a better set of allen drivers. Ground are going to be the best but are expensive. The better quality ones come from Japan. They are a bit more expensive than the Chinese ones but you will save that in stripped hardware.I have assembled many of these kits and custom built my own and out of the literally hundreds I have had very few issues with stripped heads.

I use Tonsiki allen bits. I have been for about 2 years now and am VERY happy with them.

[Ron]

I have had good luck with Zyltech for extrusions and framing pieces (when they are in stock).
For hardware I go to McMaster-Carr a lot.
They have virtually anything you can imagine.
They are not the cheapest but their fasteners are quite good and minimizing my time and aggravation are worth a lot to me versus using cheap hardware.
As for screws specifically, if you use socket head screws instead of button head screws (wherever they will fit) they will be far less likely to strip out.
Use "fender" washers under the heads to prevent them from digging into things.
For example- https://www.mcmaster.com/socket-head-cap-screws/socket-head-screws/

But yes indeed, a good quality set of Allen drivers will also prevent many problems.
Bondhus or Swiss Precision are great if you can find them.

[Tin_Falcon]

My favorite supplier for many 3D printing supplies is Printed solid. They do carry extrusion in 1 meter lengths. You will have to cut it to length. A powered miter saw works well with a fine tooth finishing blade.
https://www.printedsolid.com/pages/search-results-page?q=2020+aluminum+extrusion

a +1 for mcmaster carr for hardware. fast service quality product , excellent selection

As far as hex keys WiHA brand is also excellent. These tools are made in Germany.

[Ron]

A powered miter saw works well with a fine tooth finishing blade.

Too funny.
I thought I was the only person who did that.
I have also used my table saw with a fine tooth carbide blade to cut aluminum plate (such as the bed heater plate and diagonal braces on my FT5).
As long as you feed it slowly and steadily it works just fine and I haven't chipped a blade tooth yet.
Of course I always make sure to wear eye protection, ear protection, and vacuum up all the razor sharp chips afterwards.
Works like a charm.

[Tin_Falcon]

Absolutely. also a good idea a hat or have the bag on the miter saw. Hot aluminum chips can be distracting on the scalp to say the least. DAMHIKT

[Tin_Falcon]

@ the original poster.

You can build from scratch. in my opinion not worth the effort and engineering time. But this is a hobby so as always your choice.

Open builds is a great resource for ideas
https://openbuilds.com/?id=272

Once you have a design in mind then search the web / ebay as kits are available for some of the more common designs.

one example here.

Hypercube 3D Printer Extrusion Metal Frame & Hardware Kit Hypercube 3D | eBay

Hope this helps.

[Ron]

Hot aluminum chips can be distracting on the scalp to say the least.

Oh yes, I forgot about that.
I have an "Adams" cap with a rear flap that I typically wear even when cutting wood just for that reason.
It is similar to these-

Amazon.com: 3 Pieces Outdoor Flap Hat Sun Cap UV Protection Flap Hat Flap Fishing Hat with Neck Flap for Men Women Wearing: Clothing

But moving back toward the OP's original subject-
Buying a kit of pre-cut materials is indeed a great starting point and no, there is little that is specific to FT in the kits other than the large laser-cut pieces.
Everything else is pretty generic actually.

[Kep]

@Ron, @Tin_Falcon, and @csorrows,
Thank you for all the great information! I really appreciate it. I will be looking into these brands, products and sources (even the hat...) to see what works for the immediate needs as well as what could work well for more long term goals. I definitely need to get my printer back up and running soon. And while its a long involved process to design a completely new machine I think I will...

(In addition to 3d printing I'm also working on an 8' by 4' vacuum former, a cnc mill about the same dimensions and a robotic arm..... why am I doing this to myself...)

[Tin_Falcon]

IMHO the best way to cut 80/20 on a miter saw is to cut 4 at a time. This will insure equal length. This will make squaring the assembly easier in the end product. The other alternative is set up an end stop and insure chips do not build up on it (chamfer the bottom corner). Clamp things in place if possible to save the hands.

[Ron]

I would love to have a vacuum forming machine.

I have a very long time friend who owns a commercial plastics shop and designed all his own machines.
They are not all that complex, the tricks being in designing a mechanism to rapidly lower a heated sheet of material over a mold (or raise a mold into the sheet) and then having a generous vacuum reservoir and large capacity dump valve.
All of that type of thing is entirely do-able in a home machine.
I will not divulge his machinery secrets obviously, but I can virtually guarantee that you have seen things his company made.

Hey, could that be a new FT product?
In a more hobbyist-friendly size of course.
Virtually all the necessary parts are already used in one 3D printer design or another.
Hmmm...

[Ron]

IMHO the best way to cut 80/20 on a miter saw is to cut 4 at a time. This will insure equal length. This will make squaring the assembly easier in the end product. The other alternative is set up an end stop and insure chips do not build up on it (chamfer the bottom corner). Clamp things in place if possible to save the hands

Absolutely.
I fabricated a pair of calibration standard bars for my wheel alignment gauge set by clamping two one meter long 2020 bars together.
Then I trimmed both ends on a miter saw very slowly and smoothly (so the blade would not deflect).
Worked like a charm, they are identical in length well beyond the precision I need them to be.
So the same technique would indeed be recommended for cutting uprights.
And I cut four aluminum spacers just yesterday using a hard stop.

This is becoming a very interesting thread with good information for sure.