Where can I find the latest firmware and should I be thinking about a different controller?

modifyman 2021-12-30 00:05:12 UTC #1

After reading through many threads and trying many suggestions, it has come to this. Just start a new thread.
I use ft5_marlin_v3Firmware
Arduino 1.8.2
Cura 15.04.6 Updating now to Cura 4.12.1
Pronterface Printrun 2014.08.01

Where can I find the latest firmware for the FT-5?
and Is this stock controller worth keeping?
Should I get another for a backup or change it all together?
Should I use another software slicer?

---The long winded venting of frustration---
Okay,
I bought my Ft-5 back in 2017. I also purchased a silicone heat pad and a mosfet controller but did not install them. I wanted to start stock and take steps while learning the machine and 3D printing.

Took a week to assemble, (Marrrvelous instructions:confused:) and was able to print the robot several times before packing it up in a custom case and moved south. Darn encoder was damaged and due to life and so on, It wasn't until a few weeks ago I was able to get back to it.
Bought a new encoder/s, (minimum of 5) back in March. I now have replaced the damaged encoder and installed the heat bed upgrade.
Used a piece of, well it is often used in horse stalls for a mat, for the insulation layer and a tooling grade piece of aluminum for the heat bed. It is guaranteed FLAT!
Tried a couple of other "things" first but were not flat enough. Couldn't get the bed level.
Through the time I had spent trying to level the bed, with the other "things", I have had continuous issues with the axis homing from.
I have manually set the hot end to all the end stops with power off then power up and reset.Try to home Z and it would ask to home X and Y first.
Okay. This functions correctly.
Press "Home X Button", X stops at zero/end stop. Press "Home Y Button", and Y stops at zero/end stop. Z moves to 5 before X or Y homes but will not go back to 0. (Not home. just zero)
I press the z home and I get the "Z probe out. bed"
Press the all home button the printer then moves to X117 Y228 Z0.7 ...What the F^(K.
Use the printer LCD interface to auto home and it goes to the endstops and returns to X117 Y228 Z0.7.
The Z end stop is triggered.
I have tried commenting out some Z probe defines in Arduino. (Suggestions from other peoples threads) with no avail.
After several nights, many hours, reloaded the stock firmware and tried every thing again.
The only success is I have a extremely level bed.
100% guaranteed by the manufacturer.

I'm going to try the robot print now and will be busy for a few hours.
Hopefully some one can help curve my frustration.

5 hours later...
Earlier,
I installed Ultimaker Cura-3.2.1-win64. Started it and tells me there is another update.
So I install Ultimaker_Cura-4.12.1-amd64. Started it and throws an error box...
So I uninstalled 4.12.1 and reinstalled 3.2.1.
Decided to try and print a camera base for a tripod I drew up. Simple enough.
Made some print adjustments and saved it...was looking for the "PRINT" to start and then noticed it had started doing something...heat the bed?
THEN, after many hours of working on this thing I am accustom to hearing the fans run...suddenly, quiet. No more fans. LCD was lit...LED's lit...no fans.

csorrows 2021-12-30 05:43:14 UTC #2

The latest firmware for all of the printers are in the pinned post inside the main topic for the printer. It has [READ THIS FIRST] in the title.

EDIT: I'm sorry but after all of this time I never realized that I failed to mention in the R2 files section that the R1 and R2 use the same firmware...

modifyman 2021-12-30 05:51:15 UTC #3

I looked through that but apparently I am suffering from CSWIALA.
Can't see what I am looking at.
I will try again, but first...my new "No Power" issue. Just realized the USB powers the LED's and display.

modifyman 2021-12-30 05:53:53 UTC #4

Oh yeah...and the folgertech.com is listed "Forbidden".

csorrows 2021-12-30 05:54:37 UTC #5

Yes, as far as i know, the official site is gone.

csorrows 2021-12-30 06:03:03 UTC #6

That's the reason some users remove the power feed from the data cable. There is a how-to here on the forum if interested. I never had a problem using it un-modified but some users have. I never connect the USB without the power turned on the printer.

I honestly just got home from work and saw your post but did not read through it. I just answered the title question.

Honestly, there are users on here that are much better at troubleshooting this kind of issue than I am. I was the engineer and documentation maintainer, I don't use the products very much. I'm sure one of them will be along soon to help you out.

modifyman 2021-12-30 07:26:28 UTC #7

I think I found the problem...

A blown Varistor. This I can fix.

(Actually it is a thermistor. Labeled RT1 on the PCB)
Looks like a varistor...but not...

Possible Cause:
I am located some distance from the main electrical service. I run a 10 gauge line about 200 feet. 120 Volts at its end but another 30 feet of 12 gauge...then about 25 feet of 14 gauge into my UPS...solely for conditioning...need a new battery.
It's winter and I try to regulate the temperature at 65 degrees. During the day the voltage is prone to drop in this service area.
I usually work on this at night. Heat bed started up, low AC supply voltage and the Power Supply had to draw more current to make up for available voltage.

I think that's how it works...as I recall...from another millennia ago.

...Later...
Decided to do away with the Thermistor. But, replace the 8 Amp fuse with a 3 Amp. The PCB calls for a 3 Amp. Explains why the thermistor blew before the fuse.
Also make the fuse accessible from outside the power supply enclosure. I actually have some 3 Amp breakers...

csorrows 2021-12-30 07:34:18 UTC #8

Oof. Yup, that's atleast an easy fix and not caused by another failed component. I'm sure whatever you replace it with will be higher quality and it should not happen again. This was a problem with some of the earlier PSUs.

I'm not sure taking that out of the circuit is a good idea, it's supposed to be dealing with the inrush current.

modifyman 2021-12-30 07:50:14 UTC #9

I actually had to make this one...could have left the power disconnected.
I thought the LCD and LED's were just from a draining capacitor and never paid much attention until....well, now.

I usually take my laptop in at night when I'm done out, way out. here...so yeah, they would be off then.

Tin_Falcon 2021-12-31 01:40:02 UTC #10

Sorry for dropping in late in the game.
That is a lot of extension cord both in terms of length and interconnects not the best thing ... Is solar an option ?? you could run of 12 volts no need for an inverter or power supply.

Mr sorrows is correct the power supplies for version 1 were marginal at best. They were often replaced by FT.
I have upgraded to a mean well.
Also i recommend reptier host that has cura slic3r and Prusa slicer built in.
IIRC i commented out the one line for auto bed level and a a couple other minor tweaks due to upgrades.

Arduino v 1.6.7 is recommended for loading firmware.

modifyman 2022-01-01 07:06:05 UTC #11

Yeah, that is a ways, but it's the only place I have to set this up where it isn't in the way of others and other things.
It's my own domain and I do have quality cordage. The bite comes from my radiator style oil electric heater. Even with only the 700 Watt switched on it drops the voltage 7-8 volts. I thought about running a long ass skinnier cord I have for the heater but that, well, it wouldn't hurt to try it and monitor the KWH.
That, plus some better protection from the cold...it all takes time...

Temperature swings,(quick and sudden) are not good for micro-circuitry.

I did not plan on this taking so much time. I have materials to enclose the printer which would keep everything a more constant temperature with less power. This - will - be - done before I start it up again.
The next power bill is not going to be friendly...and for what?...

That power supply is toast. It is not worth the time...simply because ---- it's a piece of crap. Cheap parts that literally were going bad just sitting so long...And I am not buying another like it.

I did consider, or wondered about the impact of the new heater on the stock PSU as I was hooking it up.
The reason why to use another controller...the larger current draw... I got too compliant of what I was seeing on YouTube. Too many other things going on and trying to get this finally going before the new year and, NOT listening to that voice of reason in my head.
Not again though. I may be new to the 3D printer tech, but I have built other things in the past and it is typically better to be safe than sorry.

I did not come up with the name, modifyman...that was bestowed to me from a past friend...Died way too young...
The 3D printer is to solve the constant road blocks I encounter in dealing with the crap that is made and sold.
I can find the planned obsolescence and have a solution..."modification" Just need the tool/s.

...The more I learn, the more ignorant I realize I am. MRM

modifyman 2022-01-01 07:52:34 UTC #12

...Mean while, not out there in the cold...

PSU

Looking at TRC Electronics for a new power supply...or maybe two.
One for the controller, motors, hot end... and one for the heat bed.
But the larger PSU's do have a couple more desirable features.
Either way I choose, I think Ben Franklin, should get that issue, ironed -- out -- well...Hhh... ...hopefully.

The other things.
Not much I can do until I get some power going.
Still trying to get a better grasp on the Marlin firmware coding.
I wonder if the controller board is buggy, (seems to be popping up more often than I would like to see on the internet) and what I do doesn't matter if its processing something incorrectly.

Can I use an offset to correct my homing? or is this only for probes? and I'm thinking something totally different.

OH Yeah, Happy New Year...
It's going to be a noisy one...again...

Reading the Repetier web page now. Thanks!

The Solar Thing...
Still need some batteries or actually, cells to create the battery.
One of the items on the list to print, well, not one, but six to start with...that is/are...uhhh, --will be enclosures for wet lead battery cells..Individual 2.3 Volts cells. Connect them externally. One cell goes bad...replace/swap out only the one cell....This all takes time...
And it is winter...not so sunny here even though I am currently in Southern California...soon Missouri...

Spent $80.00 on hardware to upgrade my printer case..for a printer I have not yet ....

Tin_Falcon 2022-01-01 14:37:38 UTC #13

TRC IS A GOOD COMPANY
I have purchased several dozen small power supplies from them for work. all Meanwell brand.
that said I have a
MW SE 450 -12 12 V 37.5 AMP power supply from them for my ft 5.
Also my Ender 3 came with a MW PS from the factory.

the SE 450 has a rated input of 100 -120 volts so a little voltage drop in your system should not affect things much.
the factory original was fine for the smaller 2020 i3 and IIRC mine is still original although the fan gets noisy from time to time.
as far as modifying firmware take it slow. change one thing at a time unless you are very confident in the changes. . comment out lines you think you do not need . use lots of comments so you can go back if needed.
Not difficult but a bit of a learning curve.
People often forget the laws of scaling you make a heat bed 1.5 times bigger the surface area increases by 2.25 times along with power needs.

Tin_Falcon 2022-01-01 18:25:08 UTC #14

There is a fuse built into the power plug. very accessible from outside the case. This is also a bit well-hidden and often missed.

modifyman 2022-01-01 19:45:07 UTC #15

The Mean Well supplies are the units I have been filtering/looking at.
Do you use the remote sense function? and what is it for...remotely bring the unit out of standby? I haven't looked in to that...yet.
I have been looking at the EPP and RPS units.Input range of 90~132Vac. Open frame sits better with me. Never liked the idea of a device generating a lot of heat in a small enclosure. Plus I can place the fan in a way that ducts to my spool...which will be enclosed for temperature and dust protection.

The new heat plate I just put on probably played its role taking down the PSU.
It is a CHUNK of aluminum that absorbs heat...and when I enclose this thing, should help hold the heat when there aren't any cool drafts moving across it.

One of the sales associated at IMS, (Industrial Metal Supply) who helped me find the remnant section first handed me a 5/8 inch chunk...said this would never ever warp on me. I would had bought it if it wasn't for the weight and the design of the FT-5. It would had taken a few minutes to heat up but, after that...

It is better to have and not need,
than to need and not have...
until,
You have too much and can not find what you need. MRM

modifyman 2022-01-03 21:18:54 UTC #16

Placed order for a new power supply....was not seeing any information on it being shipped....find out it is out of stock until February 14. No -no-no...
So I got another similar and now it's wait for UPS

Have Arduino v1.6.7
Have the Marlin v2.0.9.2
Do I use the new configuration.h and configuration_adv.h to replace the older ones and keep the rest of the tabs?

Trying to figure out the applicability of the Marlin web page......I know...I know now....I now know more than I did 4-5 years ago...this is a never ending process....am I pointed in the correct direction?

modifyman 2022-01-03 21:24:01 UTC #17

I have searched through, (find) using these coordinates and have come up empty.

Tin_Falcon 2022-01-03 23:26:04 UTC #18

It has a been a while since I modded mine.
Marlin 2.X.X is not compatible with the arduino IDE
You need something like MS visual studio code and platform io installed or a couple other options.

Somewhere i have my modified file but it is a bit customizes for my machine'

modifyman 2022-01-10 20:54:47 UTC #19

Got my new PSU. It's not enclosed and setting it up with the recommended cooling....fan placement...
Plenty of room for my heat bed controller and fan and a power block/wire terminal thing.
It has a remote PS-On along with a 5v Standby and of course a Fan terminal...and some other stuff....going to use the mentioned...not sure how to use the Power Good/Power Fail...yet...
...waiting for some plugs and a, (small enough to fit under the AC in plug), fan that delivers 25 CFM. (It's a 500 watt PSU overkill)
Just need the time and no dust storms/wind...Did I mention I live in a dust bowl?

Tin_Falcon 2022-01-12 22:36:50 UTC #20

I live about 10 -5 miles from the Delaware bay aka the other jersey shore. so, I have to worry about humidity. more than dust.