Ft-5 R1 basket case?

[Jduke]

I recently bought a basket case of a forger tech ft-5, R1

Pretty much entirely in parts, got it mostly back together, the extruder is mostly absent, and part of the mount for it is also broken, so I’ll have to rebuild that part of it.

I’m also wondering if I could flash generic marlin firmware onto the main board.

If I have to replace the main board, rebuilding it doesn’t make as much sense.

Thanks

[Tin_Falcon]

the extruder is mostly absent, and part of the mount for it is also broken, so I’ll have to rebuild that part of it.

i never liked the melamine mount anyway. i rebuilt mine from aluminum

Also the extruder hot end is functional i replaced mine with a titan aero combination.

as far as the board you can certainly use a generic copy of marlin if you know how to configure it.

[Tin_Falcon]

forger tech ft-5, R1

I assume you really mean Folger tech

[Jduke]

Yes, I did mean folger tech, auto correct got me.

I have started fabrication on an aluminum mount for the hot end and filament drive motor, and am using an Amazon sourced hot end, as not enough was left of the original to use.

I have configured GRBL on an arduino based cnc controller, I suspect configuration for marlin will be relatively similar.

For GRBL I used universal g code sender to easily change parameters like acceleration and travel, can I use that for marlin, or is there similar software that makes tweaking settings easier?

Thank you

[Tin_Falcon]

The original marlin setup for the ft5 is available for download on this forum. I suggest using Arduino ide version 1.6.7.

If you want to use marlin 2.0.x you need to use Microsoft studio code and input O/I to set it up.and there are a fair number of parameters to set.

IIRC GRBL is a bit of a different system .
you need to use something like repitier host with cura, Slic3r or prusa slicer.program.

Supersicer is another option.

the general work flow for 3d printers is:
firmware marlin is likely the most common
reiptier firmware is another possibility.

design software aka cad to create your model
netfab or the like to repair if needed
Slicer software aka cam to create g code.
and a host program to tie things together to run the g code.
pronterface is another host type
you can run the code directly from the computer or slice and save to an sd card and run from the card on the printer.

[Jduke]

Tin_Falcon,

thank you for the input, I will look for

looks like its currently running Marlin 1.1.0-RC6, so far I have gotten it mostly back together with the exception of the bed.

I fabricated an aluminum mount for an aftermarket hot end.

couple questions about the interface and direction of motors.

it Homes to the right rear corner, is that how these machines were programmed?

also when I try to use the machine interface, to jog, it only offers options to jog X and Y, you cant jog Z or the Extruder.

I have Simplify3d so I have opened it up via that as well, and can jog Z and extruder with it.

Currently the extruder motor runs clockwise to feed filament and anti-clockwise to retract filament, from what I can see on the pictures of the OEM extrusion setup this was correct, with the feeder I have mounted, I am going to have to reverse the motor, should be as simple as a couple wire swap.

thanks
Duke

[Tin_Falcon]

it Homes to the right rear corner, is that how these machines were programmed?

Seems a little backwards but yes that is the way the machine is designed.
IF the e and z jog with simplify 3d they are obviously working
seems odd they do not work with machine control.
as far as reversing the e motor direction yes you can reverse two wires. the other option is changing motor direction in firmware or possibly software.

[Jduke]

I did a phantom print, both E and Z work from there, but they don’t have an option to move them with the on board screen.

Now just waiting on the a glass plate to test print.

As for the extruder I’ve already reversed direction with a wire swap, from my experience working on previous machines that will be easier than switching in software and then having to do it again after updates.

Duke

[Tin_Falcon]

Either method works. my ft 5 and 13 2020 i both changed the direction in firmware, my ultimate maker i did the wire swap.

[Jduke]

First test print highlighted the need to tighten both Y axis belt mounting plates.

I’m not impressed with the mechanism for securing the Y axis belt mounts to the X axis cross beam and linear slides.
That single m3 screw pulling the plate up to hold the Y axis mounts in MDF looks like it will be a point of failure with extended use.

Since I have already fabricated an X axis mount from aluminum, perhaps I’ll look at making something for these as well.

Second test print in PLA went much better and didn’t have the stepping between layers from Y axis slop.

Duke

[Tin_Falcon]

Sorry i should have warned you to tighten all the screws and belts before attempting a print. I do not know exactly why but screws into melamine loosen with time my printer does the same thing and has not moved in a long time.

[csorrows]

It has to do with humidity changes, the material expanding and contracting. Here, we have very steady humidity and I did not have any of those issues. However, most places do.

YMMV.

[Tin_Falcon]

My shop is a shed room off the main house. so more or less controlled environment. Of course, it does not help the Delaware bay is about 12 miles away.