Some feedback :
Auto Bed Leveling
I've used them both. The IR probe I used is the one from David Crocker and has an angled setup between the IR-led and the detector. Trigger distance is about 2mm from the surface. Works very well on an opaque surface like a printing foil or even a spray on plain glass. Since the sensor is very small, it can be mounted close to the nozzle and used as a normal end stop. If you use always the same surface, this works very well. Since I use several kind of surfaces and also some mirror tiles, the reflection isn't always on the same distance. The reflection for a mirror comes from the bottom layer at roughly 4mm from the point you want to detect. This was for me the main reason to use a BLTouch. as this one touches the surface whatever material it is.
The best thing I did however, was locking the two Z-spindles to each other. Once that is done, there is no difference any more between left and right. Once correctly set up using the nozzle and a piece of paper. The BLTouch is just becoming an high-end end stop.
Frame Rigidity - day one
Whether it is 713 Makers or something else : yes it is very important.
I used from the shelf corner pieces (Alu 4mm thick) to replace all the melamine piece. But it is not only that : you should get rid of all melamine directly in the printing chain : Y-belt connection, the bed support, the pieces supporting the Y-rails, print head ... It deforms, and over time it just degrades.
Day one because of troubles getting it removed afterwards especially for the bed and the Y-axis support pieces.
Power Supplies - day one
Go for 24V and mains for high power BED heater. 24V doesn't need that lot of investments. Fans are quite cheap and a hot end heater isn't that expensive neither. Steppers are compatible and will run much nicer with 24V versus 12V. Buy one with a name on it and clear specs available. I've installed a fanless Meanwell 150W 24V supply and a Keenovo 750W 230V bed heater. Try to adjust the currents of for the steppers to the lowest possible value to reduce overall power consumption.
Day one because of safety !
Hotend/Extruder - later
I never installed the stock hot end, but went for the Titan-Volcano combination and now for the Aero-Volcano. The last one is more rigid and has certainly a better cooling. My choice was based on printing flex materials and having the shortest path between the extruder and the hot end. The other criterion was high temperature. I didn't want to be limited for printing PC at 300+°C Therefore I also use a PT100 as temperature sensor in the hot end.
In the facebook group there are several people using the bowden setup. It decreases the weight of the printhead, meaning less mass and higher accelerations. This doesn't mean higher velocities, because these are also limited by the rest of the mechanical design AND the capacity of the hot end. I reduced acceleration and jerk and perhaps this leads to drastically higher printing primes by some minutes, but never worried about that.
Later because it is easy to do and you can print already.
Heatbed - day one
I modified the heatbed support to a home-made alu design (no melamine, remember) and the FT-supplied heatbed with the Keenovo glued on it. I had the previous bed version (white bed). Heating was terrible see here
day one because of safety and replacing afterwards is a lot of work.
It is expensive and I do not see any advantage.
I use plain 4mm float glass or mirror tiles. Never had an issue. I heat the bed up to 130°C...
Float glass is cheap and if you break one (I never did), no worries to get a new one immediately.
I also have several ones (4 or 5) and can change whenever I like. When I print some pieces in ABS, I can replace the tile, put it aside, start a new print and while doing that, the previous print pops off automagically from its support. Multiple borosilicate ones ... I can use the money for other and better improvements...
--- deleted one of the posts. published for some reason 2 times ...